"The Hidden Secret of South Africa"

Driving down the endless stretch of road that merges with the horizon and the sun beating down, one wonders what the attraction will be until one enters Graaff-Reinet, a small Karoo town that is nestled in the meander of the Sundays River. Karoo means dry, arid landscape in the language of the Khoi, the native people who inhabited the area hundreds of years ago.

Graaff-Reinet is fondly referred to as the Gem of the Karoo by the locals. The nickname comes from the town being an oasis in the desolate surrounding landscape.

Graaff-Reinet is regarded as one of the most important cultural-historical centers of South Africa, I read in my guidebook. On arrival I first encounters the majestic central figure of the Dutch Reformed Church with its 150 feet steeple. This prominent gray and white structure is dramatically lit at night and it is said to be a replica of Salisbury Cathedral in Scotland. The total cost of the church was a staggering Ł7,500 in 1886, the info pamphlet explained. I spend hours examining the intricate woodwork and magnificent stained-glass windows.

The town most visited landmark is the Valley of Desolation. The Valley, as the locals refer to it, is a geographical phenomenon that is the product of volcanic and erosive forces of over millions of years. The sheer rock cliffs stretches from the valley floor and in the distances the Karoo landscape merges with the horizon. The scene from atop the Valley of Desolation left me speechless. It is an ideal spot for a picnic lunch and to soak up the Karoo landscape.

Graaff-Reinet’s history is filled with numerous tidbits of interesting tales, which my local tour guide enjoyed re-telling. Since the early 1960s effort has been taken to ensure that the town retains its unique old-world character and today Graaff-Reinet has some resemblance to its days as a frontier settlement. Thanks to Dr Anton Rupert and various institutions, the old deteriorating buildings of the town have been restored to their former glory. It is interesting to note that Graaff-Reinet is home to more national monuments than any other town in South Africa.

The main highlights that are all within walking distance

The Drostdy Hotel was originally the seat of local government in this region. The building has undergone many structural changes during its lifetime, but in 1977 it was restored to its original pristine elegance and it is still in operation today. The present hotel is a little museum that cannot fail to fascinate even the most unhistorical-minded person.
Stretch's Court is a unique street restored in its entirety. These houses were the homes of emancipated slaves in the mid-nineteenth century. Currently, the Drostdy Hotel utilizes the buildings for accommodation.
The Hester Rupert Art Museum boasts with over a hundred art works from leading South African artists.
John Rupert Theatre is famous for being the only theatre in the Camdeboo region. It is a restored Congregational Mission Church and it still has the original pulpit in the foyer, now that is not something you find every day.
Reinet House is a museum that was previously the Dutch Reformed Parsonage. The old vine in the courtyard is said to have been one of the largest vines in the world. The circumference measured 2,38m but recently fungi plagued it.
Other museums worth visiting are the Old Library and The Uquahart House.

Walkabout

Walking along the tree-lined streets of Graaff-Reinet I encountered one national monument after another. It took me a while to realize that there is no traffic lights in this little town, which has more than 220 private homes declared as national monuments. Some boast with broekie lace verandahs, others have Victorian architectural influence, whilst most are the typical Karoo-style houses with thick walls (to keep the heat at bay) and corrugated iron roofs.

Other Activities

There is also far more to Graaff-Reinet than history. For the more adventurous visitor there are 4x4 trails into the mountains and hiking trails up Spandau Hill. I walked the 14km daytrip and I think it is the best way to see the Karoo countryside. For info on guided hikes phone Buks at +27 498923410.

I was told that Paragliding enthusiasts from all over the world come to share the thermals of the vast Karoo skies with the resident Black Eagles.

My game viewing trip started early afternoon on an open 4x4 vechicle and included sundowerns up at The Valley. Game viewing is ideal here since the town is situated within a 200ha nature reserve. Kudu is plentiful and they are said to come into town during times of drought. I was fortunate enough to see buffalo and too many buck to name.

Graaff-Reinet is 240km from Port Elizabeth known for the Addo Elephant Park and is also accessible on route from Johannesburg to Cape Town, via the Garden Route. Numerous accommodation facilities are available (www.graaffreinet.co.za) I stayed at Karoopark Guest House (www.Karoopark.co.za) and enjoyed a traditional Karoo meal in a lapa-setting (enclosed area made by reeds in the middle of the game reserve) which is ideal for stargazing and mmnn the food (Karoolamb chops and much more) was really enjoyable.

This little gem, with its painstakingly restored buildings, is virtually a living museum. It is a must see!

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